The idea came from a few articles in Italian. I could neither verify if the schemata were OK (some building details appeared suspicious to me), nor could I know in advance if the building techniques were correct. But I knew that many companies sell 1:9 ununs for long-wire antennas, so I can assume it should work for somebody, if not, the unun would not be anymore in the catalog. I decided to give this technique a try.
WARNING: It may be safer for your transceiver and for your pocket to buy a 1:9 unun. I did this because I only find fun in building. Copy my construction at your own risk.
http://www.oe5.oevsv.at/opencms/technik/antennen/anpassung | German | Theory and practice |
http://sharon.esrac.ele.tue.nl/~on9cvd/Transmissielijn%20trafo's,%20voorbeelden.htm | Dutch | Theory and practice |
http://www.technik.ba-ravensburg.de/~lau/beverage-unun/beverage-unun.html | German | Theory and practice |
http://www.qsl.net/iz1dxs/Antenna_Rybakov.html | Italian | Theory and practice |
http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/Topband/1998-02/msg00032.html | English | Comment from an user |
http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_experimenter.htm | English | Kits for experimenters |
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-911H | English | An US manufacturer site |
http://pro.wanadoo.fr/rdxc/ITA/baluns.htm | French | A French manufacturer site |
First, you have to get a T-200-2 toroid. This means, that it is a toroid of size 200 and material 2. The datasheet says that material 2 gives good results until 30 MHz. Beginners: do not blindly copy other's designs: understand what you are doing first. In my case, I tried to understand the material first. |
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Next, pass three wires together around the toroid. I chose enameled 1 mm diameter copper wire. I passed eighteen times the center of the toroid. Other authors use thirteen. My aim was to better serve lower bands, so I put a few more turns. Also, I verified the electric isolation of enameled wire and it seems that for 20W it is on the safe side. |
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This is the diagram. The colours names in French mean: Black, Red, and Yellow, from left to right. Refer to this diagram for explaining connections later. I added another connection in point 2 - (upper red wire) |
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Choose a connector. I used the leftmost SO-238 one for my unun. |
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At the beginning, I only connected the upper-black/lower-red wires to the center of the SO-238 connector; the mass of the SO-238 connector is connected to the lower black wire using a bananna connector (upper left, near the "R"), and the antenna is connected to the upper yellow wire (lower left from the ring). After some trials, in which the 1:9 unun relationship appeared to be a too high transformation ratio, I added another connector to the connection of the upper red and the lower yellow wires. My hope was that it would show a 1:4 unun ratio. Following the purest Argentinian traditions, I used recovered materials. The case was coming from a ten-years old Synoptics 10 Mb Ethernet adaptor. I noticed that the inner part of the case was Aluminium coated, and that it was conducting. I put some rubber strips recovered from broken bicyicle tyres. The whole fitted nicely inside the case. |
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The finished unun.
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Some tests being done, before I added the 1:4 connection. |
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The 7 meter mast is a fiberglass fishing rod. The antenna is made from electrical PVC-coated multistranded wire, according to my calculations it should be OK for 10-20 Watts. The base is recovered from a Christmas Tree. The 7 m (~21') fishing rod was bought, it cost 15 euros at Decahtlon, a French sports supermarket. Behind are my other antennas under development. |
Copyright 2006 Dimitri Aguero, F4DYT.